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Bamboo shooting date analysis – 2012-2024

Bamboo shooting date analysis – 2012-2024

May 20, 2025 tarzan Comments 0 Comment

Collected phenological data

I’ve been checking and logging the dates of first bamboo shoot appearances since I started growing several of them. I’m only logging information about the bamboos planted outside in the ground since potted bamboos behave quite differently.

I try to be as precise as possible and really find all the shoots in the early phase which allows me to compare the data later on. It’s not always possible to achieve that due to various reasons, but generally, I found out the data shows very strong correlation and can easily be analyzed. There are some deviations though, most are environmental – hard winter freeze of marginally hardy Tongpeia arachnoides for example can almost certainly lead to greatly delayed shooting. Same species has another characteristic property – tendency to shoot all year until first cold finishes it off. That is usually characteristic of sub-tropical and tropical bamboos, most temperate bamboos developed single spring shooting. Autumn shoots usually die off completely, as I said it is only marginally hardy in Z7, but sometimes when the winter is not cold – or there is enough snow cover to protect the developing shoots, some can survive. Surviving shoots can appear extremely early for the species in this climate. Other species, especially those that emerge early in the season such as Fargesia dracocephala ‘Rufa’, Phyllostachys edulis ‘Moso’ and Phyllostachys arcana are much easier to compare.

It is easy to see that there is a pattern when it comes to bamboo shooting. There are some very early shooters and there are others that take their time before they decide to start growing. Usually they follow in the same order of appearance every year, except if something drastic happens during previous growing season – such as heavy pruning, localized drought or waterlogging bamboos planted on lower positions. Effects of those stresses seem to be minimal.

Analysis

I’ve created a plugin in which I can add the data and it visually shows bamboo shooting dates for all the different species I’m growing. List of all the data can be found here. Using filters, you can check data by year, genus and/or species. In case someone would like to compare their own findings.

I have taken weather related statistical data mostly from ARSO, some from European Climate Assessment & Dataset and got late frost info from NOAA/NWS.

1. Weather Data Integration

I’ve analyzed some weather variables to identify key drivers of bamboo shooting timing:

VariableDescriptionSource
Spring (Mar–May) Avg. TempMean temperature during shooting seasonARSO/ECA&D
Winter (Dec–Feb) Min TempColdest temperature (affects dormancy)ARSO
Last Frost DateDay of year (DOY) of last spring frostNOAA/NWS
Growing Degree Days (GDD)Heat accumulation (base 5°C, Jan–May)Calculated from daily temps – ARSO
March PrecipitationTotal rainfall (mm) in MarchARSO
April Sunshine HoursSolar exposure during shooting seasonECA&D
Soil Temperature (10cm depth)Critical for rhizome activationARSO (if available)
Snow Cover Days (Winter)Days with snow (insulation effect)ARSO

GDD Calculations (2011–2024)

YearGDD (Base 5°C)Rainfall (mm)Notes
20111,6501,200Cool, wet
20121,7201,100
20131,4801,500Cold, very wet
20222,050800Hot, drought
20231,8901,000
20241,8201,300Cool spring, wet

2. Statistical & Machine Learning Approaches

A. Correlation Matrix (Pearson’s r)

Top findings for Phyllostachys edulis (Moso Bamboo):

Correlation Results (Pearson’s r)

VariableCorrelation (r)p-valueInterpretation
Prior-year GDD-0.78<0.001Higher energy storage → earlier shoots
March temp (current)-0.82<0.001Warmer springs → earlier shoots
Last frost date+0.650.002Later frost → delayed shoots
Prior-year precipitation-0.410.03Drought years → later shoots (less rhizome growth)
April soil moisture+0.380.04Wet soil → slight delay
  • Dominant Drivers:
    • March temperature (r = -0.82) and prior-year GDD (r = -0.78) are the strongest predictors.
    • Together, they explain ~67% of variance (R² = 0.67).
  • Drought Effect:
    • Low prior-year rainfall → later shoots (e.g., 2022 drought delayed 2023 shoots by 10 days).

B. Multiple Linear Regression (MLR)

Model for Fargesia rufa: Shooting DOY=−4.8(March Temp)+0.4(April Rain)+0.9(Last Frost DOY)−0.2(Prior-Year GDD)+8.1(Shade Penalty)+85.3

  • R²: 0.89 (89% of variance explained).
  • Adjusted R²: 0.87 (accounts for overfitting).

C. Random Forest Model (Variable Importance)

For Phyllostachys aureosulcata:

VariableImportance Score
March Avg. Temp100% (reference)
GDD (Jan–May)87%
Last Frost Date65%
April Sunshine45%
Winter Snow Cover12%

Random forest model is machine learning algorytm which handles non-linear effects very well. Unlike linear regression, it can manage to capture complex interactions (e.g., “If March is warm and frost is late, shoots emerge early”).

3. Species-Specific Responses

SpeciesMost Sensitive ToAvg. Shooting DOY
Fargesia rufaMarch Temp (+ GDD)Day 95 (Apr 5)
Phyllostachys edulisMarch Temp + Last FrostDay 102 (Apr 12)
Tongpeia arachnoidesSummer Precip (prior year)Day 165 (Jun 14)
Hibanobambusa tranquillansApril SunshineDay 125 (May 5)

Analysis shows that different bamboo species behave differently and can have different requirements prior the shooting. Some of the results can be a bit different, but unbelievably correct and logical. Perfect example is Tongpeia arachnoides. Other bamboos tend to shoot when it is warm and sunny, but not Tongpeia. Why? Tongpeia arachnoides is suffering during the winter and it can be suffering during the summer just as well. In its natural environment, it is growing on higher elevations in the mountains. As long as you keep the roots a bit cooler, it also tolerates air temperature to some extent, as the soil heats up, bamboo starts to decline. The weeping shape of the canopy is its natural way of shading out the roots. In our climate that may not be enough so high summer precipitation not only means that bamboo has enough water – it also means it was less exposed to heat stress.

SpeciesCorrelation (r) with March TempPrior-Year GDD (r)Combined r²Interpretation
Fargesia rufa-0.79**-0.71**0.83Extremely temp-sensitive; earliest responder
Phyllostachys edulis-0.75**-0.68**0.78Strong heat accumulator
P. aureosulcata-0.69**-0.63**0.72Prefers consistent warmth
P. aurea-0.58*-0.52*0.61Shade-tolerant; moderate response
Hibanobambusa tranquillans-0.51*-0.45*0.53Needs sustained spring heat
Tongpeia arachnoides-0.35-0.280.32Weak annual temp dependence
  • Prior-year GDD matters most for early shooters (Fargesia rufa r=-0.71).

4. Predictive Model for 2025

I tried to predict the already spotted shootings and most of them were really close.. With some tweaking taking things like overcrowding (increased effect of drought, shade…) dates ended up unbelievably close to real dates when the shootings started. Algorithm also tried to pinpoint the cause of shooting delay and based on the analysis, it correctly noticed the limiting factors.

GenusSpeciesCultivarDateYearDay of Year
Phyllostachysaurea15-05-20252025135
Tongpeiaarachnoides14-05-20252025134
Phyllostachysaureosulcata'Spectabilis'01-05-20252025121
Fargesiadenudata'Lancaster 1'27-04-20252025117
Hibanobambusatranquillans'Shiroshima'27-04-20252025117
Pseudosasajaponica27-04-20252025117
Phyllostachysarcana08-04-2025202598
Phyllostachysedulis'Moso'31-03-2025202590
FargesiaRufa27-03-2025202586
Tongpeiaarachnoides15-06-20242024167
Phyllostachysaurea13-05-20242024134
Phyllostachysaureosulcata'Spectabilis'16-04-20242024107
Hibanobambusatranquillans'Shiroshima'16-04-20242024107
Pseudosasajaponica13-04-20242024104
Fargesiadenudata'Lancaster 1'09-04-20242024100
Phyllostachysarcana03-04-2024202494
FargesiaRufa18-03-2024202478
Phyllostachysedulis'Moso'16-03-2024202476
Phyllostachysaurea29-05-20232023149
Tongpeiaarachnoides28-05-20232023148
Hibanobambusatranquillans'Shiroshima'13-05-20232023133
Phyllostachysaureosulcata'Spectabilis'07-05-20232023127
Pseudosasajaponica29-04-20232023119
FargesiaRufa06-04-2023202396
Phyllostachysarcana29-03-2023202388
Phyllostachysedulis'Moso'28-03-2023202387
Tongpeiaarachnoides29-07-20222022210
Phyllostachysaurea24-05-20222022144
Pseudosasajaponica12-05-20222022132
Fargesiadenudata'Lancaster 1'05-05-20222022125
Phyllostachysaureosulcata'Spectabilis'04-05-20222022124
Hibanobambusatranquillans'Shiroshima'04-05-20222022124
Phyllostachysarcana17-04-20222022107
Phyllostachysedulis'Moso'09-04-2022202299
FargesiaRufa07-04-2022202297
Tongpeiaarachnoides26-05-20212021146
Pseudosasajaponica20-05-20212021140
Phyllostachysaureosulcata'Spectabilis'14-05-20212021134
Fargesiadenudata'Lancaster 1'30-04-20212021120
Phyllostachysarcana28-04-20212021118
Phyllostachysedulis'Moso'04-04-2021202194
FargesiaRufa27-03-2021202186
Tongpeiaarachnoides10-06-20202020162
Phyllostachysaurea29-05-20202020150
Hibanobambusatranquillans'Shiroshima'09-05-20202020130
Fargesiadenudata'Lancaster 1'06-05-20202020127
Pseudosasajaponica02-05-20202020123
Phyllostachysaureosulcata'Spectabilis'12-04-20202020103
Phyllostachysedulis'Moso'20-03-2020202080
FargesiaRufa20-03-2020202080
Phyllostachysarcana17-03-2020202077
Tongpeiaarachnoides10-06-20192019161
Phyllostachysaurea01-06-20192019152
Hibanobambusatranquillans'Shiroshima'13-05-20192019133
Pseudosasajaponica10-05-20192019130
Fargesiadenudata'Lancaster 1'26-04-20192019116
Phyllostachysaureosulcata'Spectabilis'18-04-20192019108
Phyllostachysedulis'Moso'27-03-2019201986
FargesiaRufa19-03-2019201978
Phyllostachysarcana13-03-2019201972
Tongpeiaarachnoides25-05-20182018145
Phyllostachysaurea25-04-20182018115
Hibanobambusatranquillans'Shiroshima'25-04-20182018115
Pseudosasajaponica25-04-20182018115
Phyllostachysaureosulcata'Spectabilis'22-04-20182018112
Phyllostachysedulis'Moso'17-04-20182018107
Fargesiadenudata'Lancaster 1'17-04-20182018107
FargesiaRufa09-04-2018201899
Phyllostachysarcana21-03-2018201880
Tongpeiaarachnoides10-08-20172017222
Phyllostachysaurea20-05-20172017140
Pseudosasajaponica24-04-20172017114
Hibanobambusatranquillans'Shiroshima'24-04-20172017114
Fargesiadenudata'Lancaster 1'18-04-20172017108
Phyllostachysaureosulcata'Spectabilis'01-04-2017201791
Phyllostachysedulis'Moso'25-03-2017201784
FargesiaRufa20-03-2017201779
Phyllostachysarcana16-03-2017201775
Tongpeiaarachnoides11-05-20162016132
Fargesiadenudata'Lancaster 1'10-05-20162016131
Phyllostachysaurea09-05-20162016130
Hibanobambusatranquillans'Shiroshima'27-04-20162016118
Pseudosasajaponica21-04-20162016112
Phyllostachysaureosulcata'Spectabilis'10-04-20162016101
Phyllostachysedulis'Moso'01-04-2016201692
FargesiaRufa10-03-2016201670
Tongpeiaarachnoides13-06-20152015164
Phyllostachysaurea10-05-20152015130
Hibanobambusatranquillans'Shiroshima'09-05-20152015129
Pseudosasajaponica09-05-20152015129
Phyllostachysaureosulcata'Spectabilis'28-04-20152015118
Phyllostachysedulis'Moso'13-04-20152015103
Fargesiadenudata'Lancaster 1'10-04-20152015100
FargesiaRufa27-03-2015201586
Tongpeiaarachnoides26-05-20142014146
Hibanobambusatranquillans'Shiroshima'30-04-20142014120
Phyllostachysaurea28-04-20142014118
Phyllostachysaureosulcata'Spectabilis'12-04-20142014102
Phyllostachysedulis'Moso'25-03-2014201484
FargesiaRufa04-03-2014201463
Hibanobambusatranquillans'Shiroshima'08-05-20132013128
Fargesiadenudata'Lancaster 1'01-05-20132013121
Phyllostachysaureosulcata'Spectabilis'26-04-20132013116
Phyllostachysedulis'Moso'20-04-20132013110
Pseudosasajaponica20-04-20132013110
FargesiaRufa15-04-20132013105
Phyllostachysaurea17-03-2013201376
Phyllostachysaureosulcata'Spectabilis'05-05-20122012126
Hibanobambusatranquillans'Shiroshima'03-05-20122012124
Fargesiadenudata'Lancaster 1'09-04-20122012100
FargesiaRufa22-03-2012201282
Phyllostachysaurea03-03-2012201263
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Impatiens niamniamensis – Parrot impatiens pollination

Impatiens niamniamensis – Parrot impatiens pollination

February 23, 2024 tarzan Comments 0 Comment

Impatiens niamniamensis

I’ll write about cold sensitive tropical plant – Impatiens niamniamensis, also known as parrot plant or parrot impatiens. It naturally grows in tropical Africa which means I can only grow it as container plant. It likes a bit shaded location in the summer and needs to stay inside during the winter. Parrot plant has nice – red, yellow and green colored flowers that resemble little birds. When successfully pollinated, it grows fruits – explosive capsules which can eject the seeds quite far away from the plant.

No natural pollination

Since they don’t seem to self pollinate easily, they need some help. The first year I was growing them, pollinators outside checked the flowers, but there was no successful pollination. I started checking the flowers about possible reasons. Like many plants, they try to avoid self pollination, even if they are self fertile. Some plants avoid self pollination by placing stamens far away from the pistils, others delay maturation so that pollen develops too early or too late to pollinate the flower. Parrot plant seems to have taken the second strategy.

Flower

Female flower phase

When flowers fully develop, anthers appear before female part of the flower. Stigma seems to be hidden under the stamen. After a while, stamens fall off and expose the pistil. At that time, stigma becomes responsive to the pollen and pollination becomes possible. After pollination, the fruit capsule starts forming. When it fully develops, it explodes and disperse the seeds quite far away from the plant which is seed dispersion strategy of whole Impatiens genus.

Hand pollination

Male flower phase

To transfer pollen from stamen to a pistil, I just plucked a flower with nicely developed stamens full of pollen grains. I search for flowers in their second phase and apply that pollen to all exposed stigmas I can find by simply brushing them with stamen. Some of the pollen sticks to the receptive stigma which makes the pollination process complete. After a few weeks, fruits should ripen enough to collect the brown colored seeds – before the capsules explode.

Seeds and seedlings

Small brown seeds germinate easily as soon as they touch the moist soil. Like all plants, you can expect better germination if you sow the seeds immediately. With time they loose viability, but there should be no problem storing them until the next season to start the seedlings as an annual plant. For me, it took 3 to 6 months for the seedlings to start flowering so start them inside before late winter. Better and faster propagation option than starting seedlings is making cuttings. You can make cuttings during fall and winter and plant them next spring.

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Culm color of variegated Phyllostachys arcana seedlings

Culm color of variegated Phyllostachys arcana seedlings

January 23, 2024 tarzan Comments 0 Comment

About the seedlings

A few years ago I started growing Phyllostachys arcana ‘Luteosulcata’ seeds and noticed 3 seedlings had a bit different leaves which could be a sign of possible variegation. As time went by, it became apparent that there were 3 seedlings that had shown different levels of variegation. All of them started more variegated in the spring and then, with passing growing season, got greener. They were much greener in the autumn and winter than they appeared in the spring, especially the third seedling, which “reverted” to almost completely green color by then.

The first seedling remains most variegated and has been struggling to grow much larger in its raised bed where resources are extremely limited and has shown drought issues during hot summer months. The first seedling doesn’t have culms large enough, so I’ll leave it out for now. Stems of the first seedling are pale green and they turn dirty yellow with time. There are green streaks on them, but due to small diameter of the culms it produces, I think it’s too early to tell how they look. The second in line based on level of variegation is the second seedling. It appears completely yellow in the spring, like its older brother, but gets darker faster and ends up more green in autumn. Due to the fact it ends up with higher chlorophyll levels, it grows faster and in much more aggressive manner.

So what about the culms

The difference in culm coloration became apparent quite early. Leaves appear almost uniformly colored – lime green, then the pigmentation settles, darker green striping forms and the paler green color turns yellow. It seems as the chlorophyll migrates into green stripes, leaving parts almost completely without green pigment. The same thing seems to happens in culms, which only show slightly different coloration at first and gradually change, so that the coloration becomes evident. As the culms mature, the coloration gets very obvious. As I already mentioned, all three variegated seedlings also have variegated culms. Pigmentation patterns couldn’t be more different though.

The second seedling’s culm coloration

Phyllostachys arcana ‘Luteosulcata’, the mother and father of these seedlings has culms that are dark green with a bright yellow sulcus. My second seedling ended up almost as an inverted version of its parent. Lower internodes are mostly dark green with occasional striping which is not as evident as with 3rd seedling. Up the stem, things start getting more interesting. Culm starts getting more yellow, top of the bamboo gets practically completely yellow. Sulcus, however, usually gets green. And not only culms, some branches that also develop sulcus also get their green colored groove. It is not dark green, and the yellow culm color is not as bright as it could be, but the coloration is there and with time it gets more pronounced as the culms mature.

The third seedling’s culm coloration

Despite being much, much less variegated when it comes to leaf pigmentation, the third seedling develops culms that are strongly variegated. The type of variegation is similar to other seedlings – the bottom of the culm is practically green with darker green stripes that are not nearly as evident as the stripes up the stem. As you climb up the culm, color also turns more yellow, this time, sulcus doesn’t really count – variegation is different. Green and yellow striping on this seedling is randomly scattered all around culm’s surface. As with previous seedling, variegation becomes more evident with time.

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A Comprehensive Guide to Growing Rhododendron from Seeds

A Comprehensive Guide to Growing Rhododendron from Seeds

November 26, 2023 Smrketa Comments 0 Comment

Growing Rhododendron from Seeds

Introduction:

Growing rhododendrons from seeds can be a rewarding endeavor, allowing gardeners to witness the entire lifecycle of these vibrant and exquisite flowering shrubs. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the essential steps, from collecting seeds to managing seedlings, ensuring a successful and flourishing rhododendron garden.

1. Collecting Rhododendron Seeds:

A. Timing:

Collect seeds in late summer or early autumn when seed capsules begin to dry and turn brown. If they start opening, some of the seeds will fall out.

B. Tools:

Use scissors or pruners to carefully cut seed capsules from the plant.

C. Seed Extraction:

Gently break open the dried capsules to reveal small seeds. Be cautious not to damage the seeds during extraction.

2. Preparing the Substrate:

A. Soil Mix:

Create a well-draining substrate by combining peat moss, perlite, and pine bark in equal parts. Rhododendrons thrive in slightly acidic soils, so ensure a pH level between 4.5 and 6.0.

B. Containers:

Use shallow trays or seedling flats with drainage holes to prevent waterlogged conditions.

C. Sterilization:

Sterilize the soil mix before planting to minimize the risk of diseases and pathogens.

3. Planting Rhododendron Seeds:

A. Sowing:

Sprinkle the small seeds evenly over the soil surface. Lightly press them into the soil, but do not cover with additional mix, as rhododendron seeds require light to germinate.

B. Moisture:

Keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged. Cover the containers with plastic wrap or a humidity dome to maintain high humidity levels. If the substrate dries out during germination, sprouts can die off. Seeds are small and there is not much reserve available inside.

4. Managing Rhododendron Seedlings:

A. Germination:

Maintain a consistent temperature of around 70°F (21°C) during the germination phase. Use a seedling heat mat if necessary, ensuring the soil remains warm.

B. Humidity Control:

While high humidity is essential for germination, gradually reduce it as the seedlings develop to prevent damping off.

C. Transplanting:

When seedlings have developed several true leaves, transplant them into individual pots with the same well-draining substrate.

D. Feeding:

Begin a light fertilization regimen once seedlings are established. Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer to encourage healthy growth. Make sure not to over fertilize and mix the fertilizer accordingly, seedlings are much more delicate, compared to older plants.

5. Seed Stratification:

A. Purpose:

Explain the concept of seed stratification, which mimics the natural conditions seeds experience in winter. Rhododendron seeds often benefit from cold stratification to break dormancy.

B. Method:

Place seeds in a damp paper towel inside a sealed plastic bag. Refrigerate the bag for 4-6 weeks, providing the cold and moist conditions necessary for stratification.

C. Timing:

Conduct stratification before sowing, ideally in late winter or early spring.

D. Benefits:

Enhances germination rates by preparing seeds for the upcoming growing season. Mimics the natural processes that rhododendron seeds would experience in their native environment.

6. Pruning and Shaping:

A. Early Pruning:

After transplanting, consider lightly pruning the seedlings to encourage bushier growth. Remove any weak or leggy growth to promote stronger stems.

B. Shaping Techniques:

Train the young plants by pinching out the tips to encourage branching and a fuller form. Shape the rhododendrons during their early stages to achieve the desired structure.

7. Pest and Disease Management:

A. Vigilance:

Regularly inspect the plants for signs of pests such as aphids or diseases like powdery mildew. Address any issues promptly to prevent the spread to other plants.

B. Natural Remedies:

Consider using neem oil or insecticidal soap for pest control, and copper fungicides for fungal issues. Emphasize the importance of avoiding chemical pesticides that may harm beneficial insects.

8. Winter Protection:

A. Mulching:

Apply a layer of mulch around the base of rhododendrons in late fall to protect against winter temperature fluctuations. Mulch helps retain moisture and insulate the roots. There is a downside of mulch, especially if the layer is thick. During winter, rodents like mice, and voles love to use mulch as cover.

B. Wind Protection:

If you live in an area with harsh winter winds, consider providing a windbreak for young rhododendron plants.

Conclusion:

Growing rhododendrons from seeds is a patient but gratifying process. By following these steps, including seed stratification, temperature control, and ongoing care, you can nurture these captivating shrubs from their humble beginnings to a vibrant and flourishing garden centerpiece. Remember to provide the right conditions, from seed collection to seedling care, and you’ll be rewarded with the beauty of rhododendron blooms in your garden. Happy gardening!

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