Impatiens niamniamensis – Parrot impatiens pollination

Impatiens niamniamensis – Parrot impatiens pollination

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Impatiens niamniamensis

I’ll write about cold sensitive tropical plant – Impatiens niamniamensis, also known as parrot plant or parrot impatiens. It naturally grows in tropical Africa which means I can only grow it as container plant. It likes a bit shaded location in the summer and needs to stay inside during the winter. Parrot plant has nice – red, yellow and green colored flowers that resemble little birds. When successfully pollinated, it grows fruits – explosive capsules which can eject the seeds quite far away from the plant.

No natural pollination

Since they don’t seem to self pollinate easily, they need some help. The first year I was growing them, pollinators outside checked the flowers, but there was no successful pollination. I started checking the flowers about possible reasons. Like many plants, they try to avoid self pollination, even if they are self fertile. Some plants avoid self pollination by placing stamens far away from the pistils, others delay maturation so that pollen develops too early or too late to pollinate the flower. Parrot plant seems to have taken the second strategy.

Flower

Female flower phase

When flowers fully develop, anthers appear before female part of the flower. Stigma seems to be hidden under the stamen. After a while, stamens fall off and expose the pistil. At that time, stigma becomes responsive to the pollen and pollination becomes possible. After pollination, the fruit capsule starts forming. When it fully develops, it explodes and disperse the seeds quite far away from the plant which is seed dispersion strategy of whole Impatiens genus.

Hand pollination

Male flower phase

To transfer pollen from stamen to a pistil, I just plucked a flower with nicely developed stamens full of pollen grains. I search for flowers in their second phase and apply that pollen to all exposed stigmas I can find by simply brushing them with stamen. Some of the pollen sticks to the receptive stigma which makes the pollination process complete. After a few weeks, fruits should ripen enough to collect the brown colored seeds – before the capsules explode.

Seeds and seedlings

Small brown seeds germinate easily as soon as they touch the moist soil. Like all plants, you can expect better germination if you sow the seeds immediately. With time they loose viability, but there should be no problem storing them until the next season to start the seedlings as an annual plant. For me, it took 3 to 6 months for the seedlings to start flowering so start them inside before late winter. Better and faster propagation option than starting seedlings is making cuttings. You can make cuttings during fall and winter and plant them next spring.

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Culm color of variegated Phyllostachys arcana seedlings

Culm color of variegated Phyllostachys arcana seedlings

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About the seedlings

A few years ago I started growing Phyllostachys arcana ‘Luteosulcata’ seeds and noticed 3 seedlings had a bit different leaves which could be a sign of possible variegation. As time went by, it became apparent that there were 3 seedlings that had shown different levels of variegation. All of them started more variegated in the spring and then, with passing growing season, got greener. They were much greener in the autumn and winter than they appeared in the spring, especially the third seedling, which “reverted” to almost completely green color by then.

The first seedling remains most variegated and has been struggling to grow much larger in its raised bed where resources are extremely limited and has shown drought issues during hot summer months. The first seedling doesn’t have culms large enough, so I’ll leave it out for now. Stems of the first seedling are pale green and they turn dirty yellow with time. There are green streaks on them, but due to small diameter of the culms it produces, I think it’s too early to tell how they look. The second in line based on level of variegation is the second seedling. It appears completely yellow in the spring, like its older brother, but gets darker faster and ends up more green in autumn. Due to the fact it ends up with higher chlorophyll levels, it grows faster and in much more aggressive manner.

So what about the culms

The difference in culm coloration became apparent quite early. Leaves appear almost uniformly colored – lime green, then the pigmentation settles, darker green striping forms and the paler green color turns yellow. It seems as the chlorophyll migrates into green stripes, leaving parts almost completely without green pigment. The same thing seems to happens in culms, which only show slightly different coloration at first and gradually change, so that the coloration becomes evident. As the culms mature, the coloration gets very obvious. As I already mentioned, all three variegated seedlings also have variegated culms. Pigmentation patterns couldn’t be more different though.

The second seedling’s culm coloration

Phyllostachys arcana ‘Luteosulcata’, the mother and father of these seedlings has culms that are dark green with a bright yellow sulcus. My second seedling ended up almost as an inverted version of its parent. Lower internodes are mostly dark green with occasional striping which is not as evident as with 3rd seedling. Up the stem, things start getting more interesting. Culm starts getting more yellow, top of the bamboo gets practically completely yellow. Sulcus, however, usually gets green. And not only culms, some branches that also develop sulcus also get their green colored groove. It is not dark green, and the yellow culm color is not as bright as it could be, but the coloration is there and with time it gets more pronounced as the culms mature.

The third seedling’s culm coloration

Despite being much, much less variegated when it comes to leaf pigmentation, the third seedling develops culms that are strongly variegated. The type of variegation is similar to other seedlings – the bottom of the culm is practically green with darker green stripes that are not nearly as evident as the stripes up the stem. As you climb up the culm, color also turns more yellow, this time, sulcus doesn’t really count – variegation is different. Green and yellow striping on this seedling is randomly scattered all around culm’s surface. As with previous seedling, variegation becomes more evident with time.

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A Comprehensive Guide to Growing Rhododendron from Seeds

A Comprehensive Guide to Growing Rhododendron from Seeds

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Growing Rhododendron from Seeds

Introduction:

Growing rhododendrons from seeds can be a rewarding endeavor, allowing gardeners to witness the entire lifecycle of these vibrant and exquisite flowering shrubs. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the essential steps, from collecting seeds to managing seedlings, ensuring a successful and flourishing rhododendron garden.

1. Collecting Rhododendron Seeds:

A. Timing:

Collect seeds in late summer or early autumn when seed capsules begin to dry and turn brown. If they start opening, some of the seeds will fall out.

B. Tools:

Use scissors or pruners to carefully cut seed capsules from the plant.

C. Seed Extraction:

Gently break open the dried capsules to reveal small seeds. Be cautious not to damage the seeds during extraction.

2. Preparing the Substrate:

A. Soil Mix:

Create a well-draining substrate by combining peat moss, perlite, and pine bark in equal parts. Rhododendrons thrive in slightly acidic soils, so ensure a pH level between 4.5 and 6.0.

B. Containers:

Use shallow trays or seedling flats with drainage holes to prevent waterlogged conditions.

C. Sterilization:

Sterilize the soil mix before planting to minimize the risk of diseases and pathogens.

3. Planting Rhododendron Seeds:

A. Sowing:

Sprinkle the small seeds evenly over the soil surface. Lightly press them into the soil, but do not cover with additional mix, as rhododendron seeds require light to germinate.

B. Moisture:

Keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged. Cover the containers with plastic wrap or a humidity dome to maintain high humidity levels. If the substrate dries out during germination, sprouts can die off. Seeds are small and there is not much reserve available inside.

4. Managing Rhododendron Seedlings:

A. Germination:

Maintain a consistent temperature of around 70°F (21°C) during the germination phase. Use a seedling heat mat if necessary, ensuring the soil remains warm.

B. Humidity Control:

While high humidity is essential for germination, gradually reduce it as the seedlings develop to prevent damping off.

C. Transplanting:

When seedlings have developed several true leaves, transplant them into individual pots with the same well-draining substrate.

D. Feeding:

Begin a light fertilization regimen once seedlings are established. Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer to encourage healthy growth. Make sure not to over fertilize and mix the fertilizer accordingly, seedlings are much more delicate, compared to older plants.

5. Seed Stratification:

A. Purpose:

Explain the concept of seed stratification, which mimics the natural conditions seeds experience in winter. Rhododendron seeds often benefit from cold stratification to break dormancy.

B. Method:

Place seeds in a damp paper towel inside a sealed plastic bag. Refrigerate the bag for 4-6 weeks, providing the cold and moist conditions necessary for stratification.

C. Timing:

Conduct stratification before sowing, ideally in late winter or early spring.

D. Benefits:

Enhances germination rates by preparing seeds for the upcoming growing season. Mimics the natural processes that rhododendron seeds would experience in their native environment.

6. Pruning and Shaping:

A. Early Pruning:

After transplanting, consider lightly pruning the seedlings to encourage bushier growth. Remove any weak or leggy growth to promote stronger stems.

B. Shaping Techniques:

Train the young plants by pinching out the tips to encourage branching and a fuller form. Shape the rhododendrons during their early stages to achieve the desired structure.

7. Pest and Disease Management:

A. Vigilance:

Regularly inspect the plants for signs of pests such as aphids or diseases like powdery mildew. Address any issues promptly to prevent the spread to other plants.

B. Natural Remedies:

Consider using neem oil or insecticidal soap for pest control, and copper fungicides for fungal issues. Emphasize the importance of avoiding chemical pesticides that may harm beneficial insects.

8. Winter Protection:

A. Mulching:

Apply a layer of mulch around the base of rhododendrons in late fall to protect against winter temperature fluctuations. Mulch helps retain moisture and insulate the roots. There is a downside of mulch, especially if the layer is thick. During winter, rodents like mice, and voles love to use mulch as cover.

B. Wind Protection:

If you live in an area with harsh winter winds, consider providing a windbreak for young rhododendron plants.

Conclusion:

Growing rhododendrons from seeds is a patient but gratifying process. By following these steps, including seed stratification, temperature control, and ongoing care, you can nurture these captivating shrubs from their humble beginnings to a vibrant and flourishing garden centerpiece. Remember to provide the right conditions, from seed collection to seedling care, and you’ll be rewarded with the beauty of rhododendron blooms in your garden. Happy gardening!

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springtail in the snow
Cultivating Springtails for Terrarium Success

Cultivating Springtails for Terrarium Success

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Cultivating Springtail Colony

Terrarium enthusiasts often seek ways to enhance the health and vibrancy of their miniature ecosystems. One fascinating and beneficial addition to consider is the cultivation of springtails, tiny arthropods that can play a crucial role in maintaining a balanced terrarium environment.

Understanding Springtails:

Springtails on decaying seed pod

Springtails, scientifically known as Collembola, are minute, wingless arthropods that thrive in moist environments. These tiny creatures, ranging from 0.25 to 6 millimeters in size, exhibit an impressive diversity in colors and patterns. Despite their small size, springtails are ecologically significant due to their ability to rapidly reproduce and their crucial role in nutrient cycling.

Setting Up Your Springtail Colony:

1. Container Selection:

Begin by selecting a suitable container for your springtail colony. A plastic or glass container with a lid is ideal to maintain humidity and prevent escape.

2. Substrate:

Provide a substrate with a mix of organic materials like coconut coir, leaf litter, and decaying wood. This mimics their natural habitat and provides a food source.

3. Moisture Levels:

Maintain a consistently moist environment, as springtails thrive in high humidity. Mist the substrate regularly to keep it damp but not waterlogged.

4. Feeding:

Springtails feed on decaying plant matter and microorganisms. You can supplement their diet with a pinch of baker’s yeast or specialized springtail food, available in pet stores.

5. Temperature:

Keep the colony at a temperature range of 70-75°F (21-24°C) for optimal reproduction and activity.

6. Isolation from Predators:

Ensure your springtail culture is isolated from potential predators, such as mites or larger insects, to maintain a thriving colony.

Benefits of Springtails in Terrariums:

Collembola on decaying wood

1. Decomposition:

Springtails aid in the breakdown of organic matter, contributing to the nutrient cycling process within the terrarium.

2. Mold Prevention:

Their constant movement helps aerate the substrate, preventing the growth of harmful molds and fungi.

3. Bioactive Clean-Up Crew:

As part of a bioactive setup, springtails act as a natural clean-up crew, keeping the terrarium free of debris and maintaining a healthy environment for plants and other inhabitants.

4. Enhanced Soil Structure:

The continuous activity of springtails promotes better soil structure, aiding in water retention and nutrient distribution.

Integrating Springtails into Your Terrarium:

Once your springtail colony is established, introduce them into your terrarium. Release them directly onto the substrate, and they will quickly disperse, contributing to the overall balance of the ecosystem.

Terrarium Design Considerations:

1. Plant Selection:

Choose terrarium plants that thrive in the humidity maintained by the springtails. Ferns, mosses, and orchids are excellent choices.

2. Hardscape Elements:

Hardscape is the “hard”, non changing features of the landscape. Incorporate natural elements like rocks, driftwood, and bark to create a visually appealing and diverse terrarium landscape.

3. Monitoring and Adjusting:

Regularly monitor the moisture levels, temperature, and overall health of the terrarium. Adjust conditions as needed to support the flourishing springtail colony.

Conclusion:

Cultivating a springtail colony can be a rewarding endeavor for terrarium enthusiasts. These tiny creatures not only add to the biodiversity of your miniature ecosystem but also play a vital role in maintaining its health and balance. As you delve into the world of terrariums, consider the addition of springtails as your eco-friendly allies in creating a thriving and sustainable environment.

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